Hasbean - El Salvador Finca Argentina Washed Portillo
Tasting notes: Milk chocolate, caramel, banana.
Finca Argentina is based in the Apaneca-Ilamtepec mountain range, near the town of Turin in the Ahuachapán department. The beautiful 35-hectare farm has natural hot springs dotted all over, and is situated at an altitude of 1300 metres above sea level. Our very dear friend Alejandro Martinez owns the farm along with his father Mauricio, who inherited the land along with a handful of other coffee farms in the region from Guillermo Martinez, MD (Ale's grandfather) back in 2008.
The family currently have 2 farms locally, the other being called Finca Manuella, that they run with the help of a farm manager and approximately 25-30 staff during the non-picking season. Argentina have taken a supportive approach with their labour: this team have been with the farm for 6 years now and work on maintaining and tending to the plants year-round. The number of workers goes up to 50 during the busy harvest period, including the staff members' families who also participate in the harvest cycle to help them complement their income. Furthermore, Ale and Mauricio host a yearly lunch with the crew to thank them for their hard work, and plant corn on the land for their employees and each staff member gets about 50 lbs annually to help support their families. They have also been contributing labour and materials to support the necessary improvements to the access road for the community. This is a joint effort with the municipality, community leaders and a few other local farmers.
Hasbean has been working with the family since back in 2008, and in that time our relationship has gone from strictly professional to Ale being a close friend of the business. He became involved in coffee after relocating to El Salvador from New York, where he'd been working as a city banker. With his son Lukas on the way and the hustle and bustle of New York, no place to bring up a family, the draw of home and El Salvador was just far too strong to ignore. While looking for work in El Salvador, Ale decided to help his father with some of his business interests and investments, including the coffee farms he had just inherited.
One of the investments pricked Ale’s interest, and this was a farm called Finca Argentina. The reason it really got Ale's attention was that he saw the farm once yielded loads of coffee but was producing a fraction of its old productivity. His father gave him permission to see what could be done to make the farm successful again. Historically, Argentina used to produce on average 1250 quintales (1 quintal = 100 pounds) with some years even producing 1500 or at the very highest harvest roughly 2000, however, the productivity levels had gone right down to 400-500 quintales by the time Ale started looking into it.
Alé began working the farm with more attention and better management in general (pruning, shading control, fertilisation etc) and managed to get the harvest back to 1,100 quintales right before Roya devastated the crop the following year. In 2013 they suffered the worst harvest on record, with only 70 bags harvested due to the massive issue with leaf rust - from 1,100 qq down to 200 qq... In Ale's own words "brutal"! Since 2013 the approach has been to renovate the farm with younger trees and to diversify the varieties from the vast majority being mainly Bourbon, with the goal of the plant stock being more resilient and able to handle disease. It has been slow going since their other farm, Manuela, took precedence for replanting and so far about 60-70% of the farm has been replanted.
Since then, Finca Argentina has gone from strength to strength, but not without bumps in the road. With investment and hard work, the future is amazingly bright for Ale, his father, his family and Finca Argentina. Things are also looking up for the local fauna as the farm has, over the last five years, transitioned to a more ecological management utilising compost and other organic products to minimise impact to the environment. Such management has led to more biodiversity: the team have seen deer at the farm as well as several species of birds, frogs, and snakes, and they noticed it has also helped improve cup quality.
Alongside these measures, they have also intercropped beans to enrich the soil in some areas of the plantation, the harvests from which serve as a bonus to the workforce alongside their corn provisions.
The farm is broken down into 7 areas or tablons, these are approximately 6 hectares in size each, but there are some smaller due to their location and other landscape characteristics:
- The highest tablon is San Jorge at 1,300-1,360 m.a.s.l. and is 2 hectares in size
- Fincona 2 is the most productive tablon at a size of 8 hectares, sitting at between 1,250-1,300 m.a.s.l.
- Fincona 1 is 4 hectares, sat at 1,200-1,250 m.a.s.l. The coffee plants here are intercropped with macadamia nut trees
- Guachipelin is 6 hectares in size, and in 2016 was replanted with H1, Yellow Bourbon, Icatu and a small amount of Kenya/SL-28.
- Los Mangos, also 6 hectares, is the location of a volcanic vent with boiling mud areas! We have a coffee from this area of the farm available here
- Piletas is 6 hectares large and was replanted in 2020. This is the lowest area of the farm at about 1,150-1,200 m.a.s.l.
- 4 Manzanas (3 hectares in size) was replanted in 2018 with Portillo and is where this coffee is from!
This Portillo lot is a very interesting one and really is for the varietal geeks. It's a super unusual varietal and has only been on the farm sine 2018. It’s not one we’ve had on the website before, so we asked Alé to tell us a little more about it.
The milk chocolate and caramel of the Bourbon is here in this coffee, but what sets it apart is a subtle but interesting sweetness of banana flavoured sweets. Think those little foam bananas from your penny mix.
- Country: El Salvador
- District: Ahuachapán
- Municipality: Ahuachapán
- Nearest city: Turin
- Farm: Finca Argentina
- Tablon: 4 Manzanas
- Owner: Alejandro Martinez
- Altitude: 1,300 m.a.s.l.
- Varietal: Portillo
- Processing method: Washed